Abusing the bear

Yea, so I beat around osita a bit this week. We had a nice ride to Mitla, where we camped in a nice old lady's yard then checked out the ruins in the morning. Osita didn't come in, but I got to explore the ruins alone as I was the first one there. I realized however, that osita had a little crack in the frame of the xtracyle. So, she had some emergency surgery, a quick weld and we were on our way, up a highway still under construction to the Hierve el Agua, some pretty cool petrified waterfalls that result from the flow of some mineral springs out of the side of the mountain there. Probably the coolest campsite I've stayed at in Mexico, with maybe one exception. Anyway, for the return trip, we decided to take the old road. This turned out to be about a 1000 meter climb up over the mountain from where we were (already pretty high), taking us to 2700 meters or so. It was a very steep, windy, dirt road with lots of rocks and very little shade. I think it was the most challenging climb of the trip due to the incline and sliperryness. I think the climb was mostly self-abuse. However, the downhill part was where the bike abuse came in. We dropped back down to around 1700m in less than an hour. That was the bumpyest, sketchyest, rawest, most dangerous and exciting downhill yet. The thrill had a price though, my front rack broke again (What is up with aluminum racks?). I did the ziptight/ductape thang, but may need to have a new one fabricated back here in Oaxaca.

Cooperative Art Project

Cooperative Art Project
Originally uploaded by SpokenWorld.

Irie I

Our hard work payed off this weekend with a rocking good time at the Fernanda Hostel, a reggae party that drew a great crowd with good vibes, some new friends and even a few old friends. Mario, Becca and Claire from Puerto Escondido showed up right in time. The sound system was phat, the irie vibes were flowing and the drummers were phenomenal (including chel who also DJed most of the night). The local, organic mezcal was pouring and we got tons of positive feedback on our work for the last week. People loved the plastic bottle candle holders and the cooperative painting drew much commentary and inspired some interesting interpretations of what it all ment. Chido!

As for the next step, I’m not sure. We are playing with the idea of making a toxic scupture out of old batteries to promote rechargable batteries, use reduction and the collection and recycling of them. Or I may bike into the mountains again.

Art Party

I've changed hostels again here in Oaxaca - partly for the price but also because I've been spending most of my days at this other hostel doing art stuff. Chel, a local artist, got some internationals together to do recycled and cooperative art, cooking, bike tours and other fun stuff in preparation for a party we're throwing on Friday. It will be a rockin reggae party with all the art we've made on display. On the one big collective painting we're working on I used osita´s (old) cassette to make a couple of stencils, then used these to paint a nopal cactus - a quintessential Mexican plant and food. So it looks like I'll be staying here at least through the weekend (at least).

Yesterday, in protest of the visit of our notorious president, Dubya, here in Mexico, there was a (Guess what?) protest. Very small in comparison to the APPO marches of late, but he wasn't even coming to this part of the country. We joined the group and hung a banner reading "BUSH: Abrete del PLANETA!" on the doors of the consulate. Weird how the U.S. consulate is in a shopping mall, next to a video arcade - but then again, not that weird.

Reflections on Oaxaca

Okay, so Oaxaca, Oaxaca is the most culturally, culinary, architecturally and artistically rich city I’ve seen in Mexico – maybe even in the world. It is a foodie paradise with a wide range of unique dishes where natural, organic and vegetarian food options abound. The organic farmers market at el Pochote (los arcitos) every Friday and Saturday is a must, with produce, art and lots of food to try. The Tecaje, a drink made with corn masa and Rosita de Cacao (not chocolate, but tastes like it), is delicious and can be found there or at the Mercado Benito Juarez. On the same street as the farmers market, there is a restaurant called La Casa del tio Güero, 715 Garcia Vigil, where you can get amazing moles (a very rich and complex sauce), vegetarian dishes and tasty deserts. A wonderful meal with soup, main course, drink and desert will cost only $60 pesos, (under 6 bucks) – not the cheapest place in town, but well worth it. Some like to dine in the Zocalo, with live music every night, changing on the hour, featuring people playing the xylophone, guitar trios or mariachi. Great entertainment but the food is not as good there, and service tends to be slow. Commonly eaten are grasshoppers, big tortillas and lots of cheese. Oaxaca is most famous for its cheese, as well as its coffee and chocolate – fortunately all things I really like ;)

Oaxaca is home to over 16 distinct indigenous groups, the most of any state in Mexico. It is also the richest in biodiversity, boasting the most endemic plant species in Mexico. The diversity of plants, animals and people has contributed to the development of one of the most vibrant urban cultures I’ve come across. Lots of public space and pedestrian only roads crisscross the city and you never know what you’ll drop into next – an art museum of pre-Hispanic cultures, a graffiti expo, veggie restaurant, political forum or who knows? There is so much to see and smell and do here that I may end up staying even longer than thought. A short bike trip (3 days) to Mitla is in the works, as well as a day trip to Monte Alban, both of which are enormous archeological sites from pre-Columbian cultures in the area. There are petrified waterfalls near by and other opportunities for eco-tourism (though hopefully not of the same socio-political consequence as in the montes azuls biosphere reserve in Chiapas). Time will tell where the next steps will take me.

And as for Osita, she is all better now, but the damage was worse than previously thought. I needed to replace the entire drive train. A new derailleur, crank, cassette, chain and break pads were needed to get her back into riding shape. She’s running smoothly now, however, and Oaxaca is even more fun biking through it. I found a place that puts music on your MP3 player, so I got some (much needed) new tunes – Los Fabulosos Cadillacs, Los Tigres del Norte, Molotov, Calle 13, Don Omar, Ska P, and The Kumbia Kings. Right on!

APPO march

APPO march
Originally uploaded by SpokenWorld.

International Womens Day March in Oaxaca

Celebrating International Women’s Day

Celebrating International Women’s Day

To celebrate, the APPO (Popular Assembly of the People of Oaxaca) held a peaceful march through the city of Oaxaca to end at La Plaza de Danza, next to the Basilica de la Soledad. Today around one hundred thousand of people walked through the streets carrying banners and chanting, holding giant puppets of women, signs calling for the freedom of political prisoners and lots of women with umbrellas. At the Plaza de Danza, speakers called for an end to the crimes of the “bad government” and their oppression and impoverishment of the masses for the sake of the rich. Many called for the resignation of the governor, Ulysses Ruiz (URO) – a very unpopular dude right now. Many times the women were thanked for their leadership in this movement and for all the organizing work that they have been doing here in the last 10 months. There was definitely a local focus at this march, although in other parts of the world people are reflecting on the widespread oppression of women and their struggle in much of “the developing world”.

The police seemed to really be scared of these women and their compañer@s – they constructed multiple barrier fences with razor wire and fencing between them and they lined up in formation throughout the zocalo donned in full riot gear. They completely cut off access to this main plaza for most of the day, causing more fear and disruption in the city than the march.

Oaxaca is still reeling economically from the events of the last 10 months, but tourism is coming back and the people are generally in high spirits. Music fills the air and the zocalo and parks are full of children, balloons and dancing. Cultural performances and art are to be found around every corner here and the gastronomy is incredible.

Bitter Irony

After a wonderful stay in Puerto Escondido that included live ska music, beautiful beaches, amazing travelers and a horseback ride to some hot springs, I've finally set off on my own. My first day was amazing, I climbed well over 1000m from the sea, with amazing views down the mountainside to the coast. I descended into a beautiful river valley and camped in my hammock next to the river, alongside a suspension foot bridge. I woke up to a beautiful sunrise and a couple of dudes trying to rope an angry bull. I got on the road early, about eight thirty, and climbed again for most of the day. Up and up and up, out of the valley and into the cool pine forest. Such beautiful roads, scenic mountains and fresh air here, and very little traffic. I was on top of the world. When I crested the peak of the highest climb between the sea and Oaxaca, about 2500m and started to descend down into the valley thousands of meters below. Then my chain got stuck between chain rings and snapped, wrapping itself around my cassette and twisting my derailleur to bits. I had to get off the road and admire the irony - I have had an extra set of chains and for the last four months I had been caring an extra derailleur. That is, I was carrying an extra derailleur until I left Puerto Escondido where I left it to save weight two days ago. I could have fixed everything on the spot, but without this part I was screwed. I hailed a bus that was going by and hitched a ride down the mountain to Oaxaca. The bus was a private charter doing a tour of religious sites in Mexico, so I was lucky enough to get grilled on my faith and then try to see the Virgin of Guadalupe in a well (no luck). So now I'm here in Oaxaca and have lots to do, so I should be here for the next week or two. I'm really looking forward to more mountains and the amazing magic of the south.