Reflections on Oaxaca

Okay, so Oaxaca, Oaxaca is the most culturally, culinary, architecturally and artistically rich city I’ve seen in Mexico – maybe even in the world. It is a foodie paradise with a wide range of unique dishes where natural, organic and vegetarian food options abound. The organic farmers market at el Pochote (los arcitos) every Friday and Saturday is a must, with produce, art and lots of food to try. The Tecaje, a drink made with corn masa and Rosita de Cacao (not chocolate, but tastes like it), is delicious and can be found there or at the Mercado Benito Juarez. On the same street as the farmers market, there is a restaurant called La Casa del tio Güero, 715 Garcia Vigil, where you can get amazing moles (a very rich and complex sauce), vegetarian dishes and tasty deserts. A wonderful meal with soup, main course, drink and desert will cost only $60 pesos, (under 6 bucks) – not the cheapest place in town, but well worth it. Some like to dine in the Zocalo, with live music every night, changing on the hour, featuring people playing the xylophone, guitar trios or mariachi. Great entertainment but the food is not as good there, and service tends to be slow. Commonly eaten are grasshoppers, big tortillas and lots of cheese. Oaxaca is most famous for its cheese, as well as its coffee and chocolate – fortunately all things I really like ;)

Oaxaca is home to over 16 distinct indigenous groups, the most of any state in Mexico. It is also the richest in biodiversity, boasting the most endemic plant species in Mexico. The diversity of plants, animals and people has contributed to the development of one of the most vibrant urban cultures I’ve come across. Lots of public space and pedestrian only roads crisscross the city and you never know what you’ll drop into next – an art museum of pre-Hispanic cultures, a graffiti expo, veggie restaurant, political forum or who knows? There is so much to see and smell and do here that I may end up staying even longer than thought. A short bike trip (3 days) to Mitla is in the works, as well as a day trip to Monte Alban, both of which are enormous archeological sites from pre-Columbian cultures in the area. There are petrified waterfalls near by and other opportunities for eco-tourism (though hopefully not of the same socio-political consequence as in the montes azuls biosphere reserve in Chiapas). Time will tell where the next steps will take me.

And as for Osita, she is all better now, but the damage was worse than previously thought. I needed to replace the entire drive train. A new derailleur, crank, cassette, chain and break pads were needed to get her back into riding shape. She’s running smoothly now, however, and Oaxaca is even more fun biking through it. I found a place that puts music on your MP3 player, so I got some (much needed) new tunes – Los Fabulosos Cadillacs, Los Tigres del Norte, Molotov, Calle 13, Don Omar, Ska P, and The Kumbia Kings. Right on!